July 6, 2009: I am feeling very FatGirled, and this time I have a sneaking suspicion that it is entirely my fault.
…
I suppose I somehow want a totally harmless, 14-year-old crush to put a little bit of flutter in my stomach and spark into my days. I would settle for a crush on the place; though I don’t know which would be worse for me in the long run.
The next day was a 22-hour day. We spent the night in an open tent at the Bedouin Experience, an incredibly touristy attraction that involved riding camels and donkeys and idealizing an incarnation of a culture that is all but extinct these days. The Bedouins accidentally woke us up at 3:30 instead of 4:30, and I brushed my teeth in the dark to the sound of an owl calling “hoo, hoo-hoo” in the palm trees above.
We ascended Masada via the Roman Ramp by sunrise, climbed down the snake trail by 9AM, hiked the Ein Bokek river trail by noon. At the head of the trail, one of my new friends was very upset. I stayed with her to talk her down, and he stayed with us, as it was his job to bring up the rear. He may have been there for our safety, but I still felt a profound discomfort being alone with a man carrying a gun. He said later that it was then that he became interested in me, but I did not believe him. I could not believe him.
Relaxing on the kibbutz after swimming in the Dead Sea, he came out to hang up some shirts to dry that he’d washed, including the shirt he’d been wearing. Married Cindy and I commented on the scenery. It was harmless enough, shirtlessness appreciation. Watching all the pretty young men.
At dinner, he started to sit down next to me, and I told him that I thought someone was already sitting there. It was his glass, it was him that was already sitting there. I apologized. He sat down. We started talking. I asked him questions. Suddenly, the dining room was empty except for us, and Janice told me to finish up my orange, that we could keep talking outside.
Two hot girls from our group in tiny shorts and tank tops walked past us as we strolled in the twilight. “I really like your gun,” stroking his arm. “Thank you,” he said. I’m embarrassed for America. And I’m embarrassed for myself. What am I doing here? Why are we walking together? I don’t want to be the asexual big sister while the bikini girls flirt with the sexy Israeli medic.
And then, under the tree where two peacocks perched, so dark that I could barely see his outline, he asked if I had a boyfriend. What? Are we really doing this? Where is this going? It’s all alarmingly familiar — the accented question, the perceived interest, the flattering attention. It can’t be real. It can’t be happening to me, again. And yet, here he is, asking if I might be interested in seeing him — not during the trip, because he’d get fired, but after, during my solo travels, maybe we could have something. I say maybe, but in my head I call bull. And I wonder if I should have lied, said I have a boyfriend, headed for the hills. But he is so compelling that I can’t bring myself to lie. I have no idea why I trust him so immediately.
After the others go back to their rooms, we continue to wander the lanes of the kibbutz, talking about the army and school and international affairs and the differences between our countries and cultures. Before we know it, hours have passed and we are incurably lost. I do not care. Suddenly he has gone from the scary young man with a rifle to one of the most fascinating people I have ever met — who also happens to be one of the best-looking people I have ever met. I ask him why me, when there are bikinigirls around who are all interested him.
“I want a girl with a mind,” he says.
Eventually, he asks directions from a kibbutznik passing by. The words that come out of his mouth have no direct meaning to me, and yet they strike me somewhere deep in my soul. Before now, Hebrew only existed to me in the synagogue, in the Torah, in blessings over bread, wine, candles. He may have been asking how to get to the main road, but all I hear coming from this beautiful man’s mouth are words spoken in the language of my prayers.
We move into the shadows and kiss for the first time. The rifle creaks on its strap as he pushes it behind his back to take me into his arms. His kiss is aggressive. It is familiar and novel at the same time. Red flags raise, and yet I ignore them because I don’t want the feeling to stop.
That night I cannot sleep, knowing that he is a few meters away in a different room, and wondering how I will feel the next morning. All I can feel right now is a flutter in my stomach and a spark where before there was nothing but a dark tunnel all the way down.
Our romance is secret, furtive, temporary. He is my shadow in sunlight hours, and my lover in the shadows. Nobody knows what we are doing; few suspect. We hold hands when nobody is looking. He gives me a foot rub under the table. He cares for me when I become sick, and tends my wounds when I foolishly fall in Beersheva. I lean into his arms as we stand on a pier overlooking the Mediterranean Sea one night in Tel Aviv. He is kind, gentle, and romantic, but incredibly demanding when we are alone. He never tries to make me jealous with the bikinigirls, and for once I feel truly valued for something deeper than my body, the body he insists is amazing, even if I don’t believe him.
I think people do not suspect, because why would they? He is the most gorgeous, fascinating man in our group, with the added pull of the exotic due to his nationality, his accent, his mannerisms, his dangerousness. He could have his pick of a crowded field. With this many skinny girls, why would he choose the FatGirl with messy hair and nonexistent fashion sense? My first instinct is to go with the usual FatGirl trope: we’re easier, because we think we have to take whatever we can get. But these are all American girls. We are all easy pickings for the exotic man. And yet, when we are all relaxing by the pool on Shabbat, and he is sitting there, shirtless, smoking a hookah and looking like a dragon, and he is swarmed by bikinigirls in full regalia, I see that he is still looking at me — sitting off to the side, fully clothed and convalescing, the least sexy I could possibly be, and his eyes are still locked on me as he breathes a cloud of smoke and smiles in a way that only I can see.
Time would prove this to be a limited heaven. He swears he cares about me, that I am very important to him, but I know that what we had only existed for nine days out of a lifetime. I saw him again, but only once, only for three hours, walking through Akko alarmingly naked-looking without his rifle, and all I could do was pine for a feeling I’d never had before but found myself addicted to — that I was just as good as the skinny girls; in fact, somehow, better, in all my physical extraneousness.

On the last day of the mirage, we sit on the outskirts of the southern wall of the Temple Mount, resting on the ruins as our guide talks about the poetry and songs and art that have been created about this place. Suddenly, I am overwhelmed by a feeling I cannot identify, and I look up across a sea of faces and Jerusalem stones and lock eyes with him. We stare, wordlessly, hungrily, and for once we are not hiding anything, and I feel drunk with the intensity of that one sustained glance, with the holiness of that moment.
It is the most erotic moment of my life. And even if it never grew any further from there, if I can remember that one moment when I am seventy, I hope that it will bring me some kind of grace.